Totnes

A Guide to Totnes

Nestled in the heart of the South Hams, Totnes is a historic market town that blends rich heritage with a bohemian spirit, making it one of South Devon’s most vibrant destinations. Known for its independent shops, eclectic arts scene, and thriving local food culture, Totnes offers a perfect mix of history, creativity, and countryside charm. Stroll along its characterful high street, brimming with vintage boutiques, artisan bakeries, and organic cafés; explore the River Dart by foot, boat, or steam train; and immerse yourself in live music and culture at its many independent venues. Whether you’re here for a weekend escape, a culinary adventure, or a taste of authentic South Devon life, Totnes invites you to slow down, explore, and savour every moment.

Things to do in Totnes

Catching a matinee performance at Totnes Cinema feels more akin to time travelling back to the 1920s. Easily missed from outside, save for a blink-and-you'll-miss-it vintage sign, the indie picture house welcomes patrons with tinkling ivories and cocktails before the film begins. It’s a great place to catch those lesser-known arthouse flicks and an unmissable experience that leaves you torn between wanting to tell everyone and nobody.

Totnes sees vintage wear sit side-by-side with designer threads, but Revival is the place that always promises new wardrobe treasures found. It’s an eclectic dressing up box where vintage varsity jackets rub felt shoulders with silk crepe 1930s tea dresses, well-worn in Doc Martens and everlasting leather jackets that already have endless stories to tell.

Just down the road, and proudly declaring itself ‘deliberately different’, The East Gate Bookshop has nestled on Totnes’ main thoroughfare for a few years. In keeping with the town’s bohemian magic, the indie bookstore sells words for the soul, from Devon travel and nature inspired tomes to spiritual guides. Don't forget to bookmark the Dartington Trust Bookshop too; its plethora of coffee table books are impossible to leave behind.

From its beating heart of a town centre, opportunities for exploration further afield emanate from Totnes. Rather than choosing between the scenic estates of Dartington and Sharpham, combine both on a five-mile walk along the River Dart that connects the two. Another favourite walk is the ‘Measured Mile’ from Totnes Plains to Longmarsh, a meandering mile-long stroll best enjoyed with a coffee from The Curator nearby. Alternatively, take to the water on a steamer cruise to Dartmouth as part of the Round Robin, an award-winning South Devon day out that sees the river cruise combine with an open-top bus ride and steam train journey. It’s a must if your time in Totnes falls between April and October.

Places to eat in Totnes

Totnes is arguably one of the best places to eat in the South Hams. Whether you have appetite for plant-based, nurturing fayre or gluttonous gelato and pastries, the town has it covered.

The best mornings begin at the Seeds Bakery and Coffee on the highstreet. They’re open seven days a week from between 9-9:30am, but be warned: sample a pastry from here and few others will ever compare. And yes, that warm sourdough is definitely essential for later...

The Hairy Barista is still the town’s caffeine crown jewel, and then some. Fully plant-based, it dazzles with speciality coffees (house blend, guest espresso of the week, Turkish coffee - you name it), medicinal teas, super-food lattes, raw sugar-free treats, and guilt-free vibes. Community events in the back? Sound baths, ecstatic dance, intimate gigs; the place serves up nourishment for mind, body and soul.

Lunch in Totnes can take various guises, from the humble pasty to the more exotic. Circa, previously situated at Sandridge Barton, but today sits on Totnes High Street, retains its status as a must-book table for lovers of modern British eco-cuisine. In that charming, Grade-II listed cobbler’s building, chef Rob Weeks wields a custom-built Japanese charcoal barbecue and puts fermented and open-flame cooking front and centre. Think sharing-plate brilliance; shiitake-and-lion’s-mane creations, fallow-deer tartare, ember beetroot with nettle and labneh, and a quietly progressive circular-economy ethos you’ll toast your cocktail to.

Winter weekend visits to Totnes absolutely must see time accounted for Sunday roasts with all the trimmings. Live & Let Live in Landscove is a stone’s throw from town, with a famed Sunday dinner that is worth the drive. Start with Salcombe Gin cured salmon, devour prime beef or rolled pork belly from nearby Darts Farm, and finish with ‘Our Tiramisu’. Conveniently, the restaurant also has rooms, should the food coma make leaving nigh on impossible.

DRINK UP

Totnes is the live music capital of South Devon and nowhere does the beat hit better than at The Barrell House Ballroom. Open mic nights attract talent from far and wide on a Tuesday evening, while the atmospheric ballroom sees regular guest appearances from emerging bands and local favourites. Enjoy a drink in the shadow of Totnes Castle at Totnes Brewing Co downstairs, then head on up for an evening of lyrical genius beneath the disco ball.

For those seeking a more traditional boozer, the Steam Packet Inn offers views of the River Dart with your chosen ale and some really good pub grub, while The Bay Horse comes into its own in warmer months, thanks to a sizeable beer garden with lots of suntrap spots. A CAMRA member, the pub is known for its selection of local ciders and lagers, as well as its Thursday acoustic sessions and Sunday jazz club.

Venture just outside of Totnes and two of the region’s best country pubs await. The Cott Inn at Dartington opened its doors in 1320AD and in the glow of its inglenook fireplace remains one of the most cosy places to spend an autumn evening. Similarly storied is the Pig & Whistle, whose history dates back to the slightly more recent 1700s and where dark beams and log burners make for the perfect place to decamp come winter.

Places to stay in Totnes

If we’ve piqued your interest and you’re considering booking a short retreat before making this place home, Totnes has plenty of inviting places to stay. From boutique boltholes to historic inns, you’ll find somewhere that perfectly matches the town’s warm, eclectic character.

There’s something special about the way the peachy walls of The Bull Inn reflect the sunlight on a balmy Totnesian eve. A hotel with ethics, this stylish bolthole combines an organic, ethical pub and restaurant with nine beautifully eclectic bedrooms. Founded by Geetie Singh-Watson, who coincidentally opened the world’s first certified organic pub all the way back in 1998, the hotel operates by a set of ‘No-Bull Rules’ that has seen it crowned best eco hotel of the year by The Times and Sunday Times in 2020, less than a year after opening. By 2021, the hotel had scooped its spot in the 100 Best British Hotels List.

A locally-sourced, veg-led menu sees the upcycled tables downstairs laden with dishes like poached pears and stilton, or crab and red mullet bisque with salty focaccia, best paired with one (or more – who’s counting?) of 20 organic wines. Head to bed and you’ll find a cacophony of interiors that come together to create absolute harmony in the 18^th century inn; lime plastered walls create rustic backdrops for tiles handmade locally and bespoke lighting by Rodney Lomas, crafted in a workshop just down the road in Dartington.

Houses for sale In Totnes

Whether you’re visiting for a weekend escape or planning a permanent move, Totnes offers a lifestyle as rich and varied as its streets. From historic market homes and characterful cottages to modern townhouses with all the comforts, there’s a property to suit every taste. Nestled in the heart of the South Hams, Totnes provides a perfect blend of vibrant culture, independent shops, riverside walks, and exceptional dining, all within reach of stunning Devon countryside.

If you’re ready to explore the next step in making this bohemian yet welcoming town your home, browse our current houses for sale in Totnes and discover the perfect property to call your own.